1. This first image captures it exactly as scanned. It appears that the max resolution I can get with this scanner (unless there's an option I'm missing) is 300dpi at a 4x6 inch size. Too bad it's so small. If I were to send the 35mm negative to a photo print shop, it could be enlarged to poster size, since it was shot with an excellent camera and lens.
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3. Then to the saturated image, added film grain
4. And again to the saturated image, added another filter, called simply "grain". I need to pour over the difference between these two to see what's different.
5. Saturated, fresco
6. Saturdated, ink outlines... too wierd.
7. saturated plus drybrush
8. saturated plus poster edges...too hokey for the greenery. Again, it's ok for the stone and wood, but nix for greens.
9. saturated plus texturize...looks like it's printed on textured paper
Keep in mind the limitations to what you can see in all the above "simplified" filters:
1. They were all applied at "factory settings". Many are set too high, and I can experiment with lowering/adjusting.
2. A combination of filters offers a different look.
3. If you apply the filter to the original sized image, and THEN reduce the size, that has a different result.
4. Keep in mind that printing any of these (even the original untouched up version) on watercolor paper or textured paper will add that paper's interesting texture.
5. If the image is TRANSFERED with inkjet transfer or citric acid or white glue or gel medium, the transfer process itself will add lots of interest and texture.
6. Simply adding an interesting border: either wavy or grunge or faux polaroid transfer adds interest too.
7. The next step: painting OVER the printed out photo will add the next level of interest and texture.
Next steps, I want to experiment with how PALE I might print these in order to have a nearly transparent base on which to apply paints and palette knife and other globby things to achieve a gobby gooey bumpy painterly textured result.
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